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10 WAYS TO HELP AN ARTHRITIC DOG

1/13/2018

 
  1. Bring your dog in for regular checkups so that your veterinarian can monitor your dog’s arthritis and make necessary adjustments to the treatment plan.
  2. Getting or keeping your dog slim can help by decreasing the load on his or her joints. Feeding your dog the right amount of high-quality food should help with weight control.
  3. Carefully monitored exercise on soft surfaces can help affected dogs. Ask your veterinarian for more details.
  4. Because arthritis is aggravated by the cold and damp, keep your dog warm and dry. Padded dog beds can help. Warm compresses can soothe affected joints.
  5. Massage therapy can increase your dog’s flexibility, circulation, and sense of well-being. Professional animal massage therapists are available.
  6. Pain medication, including non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (commonly called NSAIDs), may help relieve signs of your dog’s arthritis. Disease-modifying osteoarthritis drugs (DMOADs) can also be an important part of managing osteoarthritis. Never give your dog a drug without your veterinarian’s recommendation.
  7. Glucosamine and chondroitin supplements are considered DMOADs and can be used to help manage arthritis in dogs and other animals.
  8. Acupuncture isn’t just for people. It’s painless and has shown some success in animals with arthritis.
  9. Surgery may be a good choice in advanced cases of canine arthritis.Your veterinarian can tell you more.
  10. A low-stress environment, plenty of affection, and supportive care can help improve your dog’s quality of life.

​Many pain relievers that help dogs and people are poisonous to cats.

At-Home Aids for Arthritic Dogs
  • Slip-free flooring
  • Soft bedding
  • Ramps (instead of steps)
  • A warm, dry environment
  • Help with grooming

Winter Hazards and Your Dog

1/12/2018

 
  • Winter can be hazardous for dogs, and it is important to be aware of the dangers to keep your pet healthy.
  • There are indoor and outdoor winter threats to dogs, especially around the holiday season.

What You Need to Know

As the temperatures outside start to get lower and you prepare for colder weather, it is important to also prepare your dog for the winter. Whether your dog lives indoors or outdoors, there are dangers in colder conditions. Your dog’s health, food, and environment all need to be taken into consideration when “Old Man Winter” approaches.

Indoor Winter Hazards

During the winter, people and their pets tend to spend more time indoors, so it is important to keep the home environment safe for your dog. The following are some common issues to be aware of:
  • Many types of houseplants can be poisonous to dogs. If eaten, these plants can cause problems such as vomiting and diarrhea, as well as other reactions that can be severe or even fatal. It is important to keep all dangerous plants out of your dog’s reach.
  • Burning candles, fireplaces, wood-burning stoves, and space heaters create the potential for burns and smoke inhalation. The flickers and warmth of a fire can be an attraction for dogs; therefore, dogs should not be left alone in a room with open flames or hot electric elements. When these items are in use, monitor your dog at all times to keep him or her from getting burned or possibly starting a house fire.
  • Carbon monoxide poisoning can be a threat to dogs as well as people. Furnaces, gas water heaters, and gas/kerosene space heatersshould always be evaluated for any leakage. Because dogs tend to be in the house for longer periods of time during the winter, they can be exposed to carbon monoxide leaks for longer, which may cause serious health issues or death. Checking smoke detectors (and purchasing smoke detectors that also detect increases in carbon monoxide) are good ways to help protect your pets and family.

Outdoor Winter Hazards

Being outdoors in the winter can be a lot of fun, but it is important to keep in mind that dogs are susceptible to frostbite, hypothermia (low body temperature), and other cold-weather hazards. Dogs that live outdoors in the winter need special attention to protect them from the wind, rain, and cold. Hypothermia can affect normal body functioning and produce injury or, eventually, death. Fresh, unfrozen water must be available at all times. If your dog has a dog house or igloo, make sure the interior is insulated. Safe heated mats, along with a good layer of straw, are an option that can help keep your dog warm and comfortable.

Dogs that live outside should be able to come inside when they want to. Old or sick dogs should be kept indoors when possible and monitored closely for signs of illness. Even a dog that is used to being outside can suffer hypothermia and frostbite. If severe winter storm warnings or extreme cold weather alerts recommending that humans stay indoors are issued in your area, it is a good idea to bring your dog indoors, too. If your dog cannot be brought indoors, a garage or mud room can provide enough shelter in some cases.

Chemicals like ice melts and salts, antifreeze, and windshield wiper fluids can all be toxic and cause serious complications if dogs eat or drink them. Ice melts and salts can stick to the bottom of dogs’ paws, so it is best to wash your dog’s feet after he or she has been outdoors. Methanol and ethylene glycol, the toxic ingredients in windshield wiper fluid and antifreeze, can cause permanent kidney damage and even death. Carbon monoxide poisoning can occur if dogs are left in cars with the motor running or in a garage with a running car.

Going for walks in the winter can be invigorating, but it is best to keep dogs away from frozen water. Dogs can fall through thin ice into freezing water and may suffer hypothermia or drown.

Holiday Season Hazards

We all look forward to the winter holiday season each year, so it is particularly tragic when a family pet is harmed during this time. Paying special attention to safety as you celebrate is very important.
  • Christmas trees can be very attractive to dogs. Dogs may eat the needles (even from artificial trees) or drink the water at the base of the tree, which can be toxic (especially if preservatives are in it).
  • Electrical wires can be a serious hazard. Dogs that chew on these wires can sustain severe burns to the mouth, injury to the brain and lungs, and death from electrocution. It is best to keep wires out of reach or taped down securely. Also, lights may become hot and are best used only on upper branches of trees.
  • Ornaments are beautiful for people to look at, but dogs may think they’re toys. Fragile, breakable or edible ornaments may be knocked over, and wire hooks can get caught in your dog’s hair, skin, or—if eaten—stomach and intestines. An alternative to wire hooks is to use loops of yarn, ribbon, or lightweight twine. Hang the ornaments out of reach of your dog.
  • Tinsel can block the intestines if swallowed, requiring emergency surgery. Tinsel also has sharp edges that can cause cuts in the mouth. Angel hair, which is made of spun glass, is also irritating if touched.
  • Gifts should be checked for small, breakable parts that can be easily swallowed. As with tinsel, string and ribbon can cause intestinal injury or blockage. Monitoring your dog around these items is highly recommended.
  • Human holiday foods, like chocolate, coffee, macadamia nuts, yeast dough, and alcohol, can all be hazardous to dogs. For example, theobromine, an ingredient in chocolate, can cause seizures and death if eaten by dogs. Caffeine (in coffee and chocolate) also causes seizures, along with diarrhea, abnormal heart rate/rhythm and death.

We all want our pets to enjoy the winter and holidays with us. By taking a few precautions and preventive measures, dogs can be protected from many common winter hazards.

More Cold-Weather Tips

The ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) has more cold-weather tips at its website: www.aspca.org. Additional information about toxic houseplants, antifreeze, and other winter toxins is available at the Animal Poison Control Center: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/.

Traveling with your Cat

1/11/2018

 
  • Bring enough of your cat’s regular food and medication for the duration of the trip.
  • If you plan to travel with your pet, let your veterinarian know ahead of time; your cat may need a health certificate, or there may be other health issues to address.   

How Can I Make the Travel Experience Better for My Cat?

Our pets share so much of our lives that many of us don’t want to consider traveling without them. Whether you are flying, driving a car, or RVing, sharing a trip with a pet can add richness to the experience. Proper planning can make the travel experience better and less stressful for you and for your pet.

What Food and Medications Should I Bring When Traveling With My Cat?

There are many factors you can’t control when you are on the road, but changing your cat’s food can cause vomiting, diarrhea, or other problems that can be difficult to deal with while traveling. Some cats may even refuse to eat a different food; if this refusal goes on for a few days, it can quickly turn into a problem. You can help avoid this problem by bringing enough of your cat’s regular food for the duration of the trip. If your cat receives medication, bring enough for the trip and try to maintain your regular schedule.
If you are traveling by car or RV, set up a large cage or crate with your cat’s litterbox, food, and water; bringing your cat’s favorite bed, blanket, or toys can also help make the trip more relaxing and pleasant. If you are flying, you will need an airline-approved carrier for your cat; you should also request that your cat fly in a temperature-controlled cargo area.
Many people escape the snow by traveling with their pet to warmer climates. Although fleas and ticks may not be a problem during the winter where you live, your cat may be exposed to these parasites at your destination. Make sure you’re prepared by asking your veterinarian for appropriate flea and tick control products.

How Should I Plan for Travel With My Cat?

Spontaneity and family emergencies aside, most of us wouldn’t take a trip without planning some things ahead of time. The same thing applies when traveling with your cat:

Where to stay
: 
Many hotels and rental properties allow pets. Locating proper accommodations ahead of time and being clear about fees (some places charge an extra fee for pets) can help minimize anxiety when you arrive.

Travel requirements
:
 Most airlines require a health certificate for pets that will be flying. The health certificate generally states that the pet is in good health and free from any infectious or contagious diseases. Don’t assume this document can be obtained from your veterinarian on the way to the airport! Your cat may need a physical examination, fecal exam, or other procedures before your veterinarian can sign a health certificate. Also, the certificate must be obtained within a certain window of time before you travel. Find out from your airline what their requirements are and plan to get the health certificate ahead of time.  
Some destinations (particularly island locations like England and Hawaii) may have quarantine regulations or rabies certification procedures. Clarify any of these requirements well in advance of your trip.

Medical care
:
 Do you have a plan in case your cat gets sick while you are traveling? If possible, find a veterinarian at your destination; your own veterinarian may be able to make some recommendations. This is particularly important if your cat has an existing medical problem or is on medication.

Should I Sedate My Cat for Travel?

Giving a tranquilizer to a cat before traveling has pros and cons. Some would argue that if your cat is tranquilized, then he or she is not sharing the travel experience with you—so what is the point of bringing your pet along? Sedation can also have side effects, including lowering body temperature (which could be an issue if your pet is flying in the cargo area of a plane), and causing hypotension (low blood pressure). Others may argue that a little light sedation can calm a cat that is overly stressed or excited while traveling and can therefore make the trip more pleasant for everyone involved. There is no one-size-fits-all answer to this question.  Some cats do very well with a light sedative, but remember that sedation does not address all travel issues. If your cat has severe motion sickness or gets extremely stressed while traveling, it may be better to arrange for a pet sitter or board him or her. Also, not every cat is a good candidate for a tranquilizer, so ask your veterinarian if sedation is a good idea for your cat.
If you have never given your cat a tranquilizer before, give a test dose ahead of your trip. Pick a day when you will be home with your pet for most of the day. That way, if the medication causes excessive sedation or other negative side effects, you will be there to intervene and call your veterinarian for help.

​What Else Should I Know About Travelling With My Cat?

If you plan to travel with your pet, let your veterinarian know ahead of time. He or she may be able to advise you about parasite protection and other health considerations that may be different at your destination. If you decide to leave your cat at home, your veterinarian can likely recommend a good boarding facility or pet sitting service. Addressing any questions or concerns with your veterinarian ahead of time can save worry and stress while you are away.

Microchipping your Pet

1/10/2018

 
  • Many lost pets are never returned to their owners because they do not have any form of identification.
  • Microchips are a way of permanently identifying your pet.
  • Microchips must be registered with a microchip company to reunite you with your pet.
  • Microchipping is a simple, quick procedure that can be performed by your veterinarian.

​Why Microchip?

It is recommended that you identify your pet even if you don’t plan to let him or her go outside. Even “indoor” pets can get out by accident, and many lost pets are never returned to their owners because they have no identification. Collars and tags are popular, effective methods of identification, but they can come off. Microchips, which are implanted just under the pet’s skin, are one way to permanently identify pets.

What Is a Microchip?

A microchip is a tiny electronic device—about the size of a grain of rice—that uses radio waves to transmit stored information when it is read by the right kind of scanner. Microchips for pets generally store a unique identification number. They do not need a power source, and they have no moving parts, so they do not wear out. Microchips are made of a material that is compatible with body tissues, so rejection and infection at the site are rare.
After injection, the microchip becomes encased in the tissue at the injection site. It may move slightly, but it usually stays at or near the place it was injected. To read the chip, a compatible scanner must be passed over it. Different microchip companies use different chips; however, there are scanners that can read all kinds of chips.

The Microchipping Procedure

Many veterinary offices have the equipment to implant and scan for microchips. Each microchip comes preloaded in a sterile syringe. To implant the chip, the veterinarian inserts the needle just under the pet’s skin between the shoulder blades and pushes the syringe plunger. The entire procedure, like a regular injection, is very quick and does not require pain medication or anesthesia.

How the System Works

When a lost or injured pet is taken to an emergency room or shelter, he or she can be scanned for the presence of a microchip. If the pet has a chip, the scanner reads the pet’s identification number. If the chip has been properly registered, the shelter or hospital can provide the number to the microchip company, which maintains the owner's contact information. The microchip company then contacts the owner, and the pet can go home.

Microchip Registration and Maintenance
  • To complete the microchipping process, you must register your pet’s microchip with the microchip company. Some companies charge an extra fee for registration. Unless the microchip company has your information, there is no way for the identification number on the microchip to link you with your lost pet.
  • Keep the contact information you give the microchip company (e.g., street address, home and cell phone numbers) up-to-date.  You many want to confirm this information every year.
  • It is recommended that you continue to keep a collar on your pet and that you put a tag on the collar indicating (1) that your pet has a microchip and (2) the name of the chip manufacturer.
  • During your pet’s regular physical examinations by your veterinarian, the microchip should be scanned to ensure that it accurately transmits the identification number. Scanning is painless and only takes a few seconds.

Grief in Dogs and Cats

1/9/2018

 
  • Based on observed changes in behavior, it is thought that some dogs and cats grieve after losing a close human or animal companion.
  • Dogs and cats seem to show a wide variety of responses to losing a companion.
  • As in people, signs of grief in pets usually improve with time. However, there are things you can do to help your pet through this difficult period.

Do Dogs and Cats Really Grieve?

Whether animals feel emotions in the same way people do is a mystery. However, their behaviors are commonly interpreted as reliable expressions of mood—for example, relaxed, fearful, or aggressive. Based on observed changes in behavior, it is thought that some dogs and cats grieve after losing a close human or animal companion. In 1996, the ASPCA conducted a study of mourning in companion animals and found that more than half of dogs and cats had at least four behavioral changes after losing an animal companion. Many of these changes, such as eating less and changes in sleep patterns, were similar to behaviors exhibited by grieving people.
If you have recently lost a pet and other pets in the household are acting differently, it is possible that they miss the deceased pet and are experiencing grief.

Signs of Grief

Like people, dogs and cats seem to show a wide variety of responses to losing a companion. Behavior changes observed in the 1996 ASPCA study included:
  • Eating less
  • Restlessness or sleeping less
  • Acting sluggish or sleeping more
  • Vocalizing (barking, howling, meowing) more
  • Avoiding contact or play with other family members
  • Becoming “clingy”
  • Seeming disoriented or confused
  • However, these behaviors are also signs of illness in pets. If your pet is exhibiting any of these behaviors, call your veterinarian and schedule an appointment to rule out health problems.
    Some animals appear to look for the missing pet, or, if the deceased pet was taken to the veterinarian to be euthanized, they may wait by the door or window for him or her to come home.
    Other changes in behavior among surviving pets may reflect shifts in relationships, especially if the deceased pet was a dominant member of the household.

Helping Your Pet Deal With the Loss of a Companion
Again, as in people, signs of grief in pets usually improve with time. However, there are things you can do to help your pet through this difficult period. If your pet is eating less or is not eating, encourage him or her to eat by making food more appealing. For example, slightly warming canned food can make it smell better to pets. However, be very careful to not overheat food, which can burn your pet’s mouth. If your pet refuses to eat at all, call your veterinarian.
  • Spend extra time with your pet, whether on walks, during grooming, or playing games.
  • Provide distractions for your pet. Hiding toys in his or her favorite places and putting a little dry food inside a puzzle toy are a couple of examples. Try not to accidentally reward behaviors that you do not want to continue. For example, do not try to distract a howling pet with treats, or the pet may learn to howl for treats. Wait until the pet is quiet, and then give him or her your attention.
  • If the deceased pet had a favorite blanket or toy, leave it in the house for a while so that other pets understand that the missing pet is not returning.
  • Because you are also feeling the loss of your pet, it can be hard to concentrate, and your behavior can affect your other pets. Spending extra time bonding with them can help both you and them.
    Whether and when to get a new pet is a very personal decision. However, trying to quickly “replace” a pet’s companion is usually not recommended. Pets already in the household may regard a new arrival as an intruder. Consider whether you and your pets are ready for a new family member.

10 Household Plants That Are Dangerous to Cats And Dogs

1/8/2018

 
  • Over 700 indoor/outdoor plants contain toxic substances that may harm dogs and cats.
  • If these plants are ingested, signs of poisoning can be mild to severe, sometimes even causing death.
  • Most houseplants have multiple names, so it is important to confirm that the houseplants you currently own or may purchase are not toxic to your pet.

#1 Asparagus Fern

Asparagus fern (also called emerald feather, emerald fern, sprengeri fern, plumosa fern, and lace fern) is toxic to dogs and cats. The toxic agent in this plant is sapogenin—a steroid found in a variety of plants. If a dog or cat ingests the berries of this plant, vomiting, diarrhea, and/or abdominal pain can occur. Allergic dermatitis (skin inflammation) can occur if an animal is repeatedly exposed to this plant.

#2 Corn Plant
Corn plant (also known as cornstalk plant, dracaena, dragon tree, and ribbon plant) is toxic to dogs and cats. Saponin is the toxic chemical compound in this plant. If this plant is ingested, vomiting (with or without blood), appetite loss, depression, and/or increased salivation can occur. Affected cats may also have dilated pupils.

#3 Dieffenbachia
Dieffenbachia (commonly known as dumb cane, tropic snow, and exotica) is toxic to dogs and cats. Dieffenbachia contains a chemical that is a poisonous deterrent to animals. If this plant is ingested, oral irritation can occur, especially on the tongue and lips. This irritation can lead to increased salivation, difficulty swallowing, and vomiting.

#4 Elephant Ear
Elephant ear (also known as caladium, taro, pai, ape, cape, via, via sori, and malanga) contains a chemical similar to the one in dieffenbachia, so an animal’s toxic reaction to elephant ear is similar: oral irritation, increased salivation, difficulty swallowing, and vomiting.

#5 Lilies
Many plants of the lily family are considered toxic to cats, and some are considered toxic to dogs. Cats are the only animals in which the Easter and stargazer lilies are known to be toxic. Generally, a cat’s first toxic reaction to this plant includes vomiting, lethargy, and a lack of appetite, but severe kidney failure, and even death, can quickly follow if a cat is untreated. The peace lily (also known as Mauna Loa) is toxic to dogs and cats. Ingestion of the peace lily or calla lily can cause irritation of the tongue and lips, increased salivation, difficulty swallowing, and vomiting.

#6 Cyclamen
Cyclamen (also known as sowbread) is a pretty, flowering plant that is toxic to dogs and cats. If ingested, this plant can cause increased salivation, vomiting and diarrhea. If an animal ingests a large amount of the plant’s tubers—which are found at the root, generally below the soil—heart rhythm abnormalities, seizures, and even death can occur.

#7 Heartleaf Philodendron
Heartleaf philodendron (also known as horsehead philodendron, cordatum, fiddle-leaf, panda plant, split-leaf philodendron, fruit salad plant, red emerald, red princess, and saddle leaf) is a common, easy-to-grow houseplant that is toxic to dogs and cats. This philodendron contains a chemical that  can irritate the mouth, tongue, and lips of animals. An affected pet may also experience increased salivation, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing.

#8 Jade Plant
Jade plant (also known as baby jade, dwarf rubber plant, jade tree, Chinese rubber plant, Japanese rubber plant, and friendship tree) is toxic to cats and dogs. The toxic property in this plant is unknown, but ingestion of it can cause vomiting, depression, ataxia (incoordination), and bradycardia (slow heart rate; this is rare).

#9 Aloe Plant
Aloe plant (also known as medicine plant and Barbados aloe) is a common, succulent plant that is toxic to dogs and cats. Aloin is considered the toxic agent in this plant. This bitter, yellow substance is found in most aloe species and may cause vomiting and/or the urine to become reddish.

#10 Satin Pothos
Satin pothos (also known as silk pothos) is toxic to dogs and cats. If ingested by a cat or dog, this plant may irritate the mouth, lips, and tongue. The pet may also experience an increase in salivation, vomiting, and/or difficulty swallowing.

Learn More
For a full list of toxic and non-toxic indoor and outdoor plants, visit the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) website at www.aspca.org or The Humane Society of the United States website at www.humanesociety.org.

Administering Injectable Medication To Your Cat

1/7/2018

 
  • Most injectable medications given at home are administered by injection directly under the skin (known as subcutaneous injection).
  • Do not risk being bitten, scratched, or otherwise injured trying to medicate your pet. If you are unable to administer medication, your veterinarian may be able to offer other options.
  • Your veterinary health care team will work with you to make sure you know how to give injectable medication without injuring yourself or your cat.

Why Does My Cat Need Injectable Medication?

Certain medications, such as insulin, can only be administered by injection. Depending on the formulation and the type of medication, injectable medications can be given by several routes. They can be given through direct injection into a vein (known as intravenous, or IV injection), injection into a muscle (known as intramuscular, or IM injection), or injection directly under the skin – a procedure known as subcutaneous (SC orSQ) injection. It is very important that you understand how your pet’s injectable medication needs to be given; for example, if you accidentally give a medication intravenously instead of subcutaneously, complications can result. Most injectable medications given at home are intended to be given subcutaneously.

Getting Started

Before you start, ask your veterinary health care team for training and advice so you know how to give injectable medication without injuring yourself or your cat. If you aren’t comfortable or need additional training sessions, don’t be afraid to ask!

Here are a few things to consider:
  • Be sure you can handle your cat without being injured. This may not be an issue if your cat is very relaxed and is used to being handled. However, if you have had problems in the past trying to trim nails or perform other procedures on your cat, you may need help giving medication by injection. Talk to your veterinary care team about tips for properly restraining your cat for medication injections before attempting your first session. In some cases, you may need another person to help hold your cat so you can safely give the injection.
  • Don’t be afraid to ask questions. Your team of veterinary professionals will be glad to answer any questions you may have about safely administering medication injections to your cat.
  • Record your cat’s medication schedule on the calendar. Include the date and time that the medication needs to be administered. This will help you to avoid forgetting to give a dose to your cat and to remember when the course of treatment is completed.
  • If you can’t do it, ask about other options. Giving medication injections to a cat requires skill, patience, and confidence. If you aren’t comfortable trying to give injections at home, ask your veterinary team if the injections can be done at your veterinarian’s office. For long-term therapy (such as insulin), this may require a prolonged time commitment. For short-term medication, however, outpatient injections can be a very practical option.

Basic Equipment

The “syringe” is the clear (usually plastic) cylinder that holds the medication to be injected. The “needle” is the sharp, metal tip that is injected into the skin. The “plunger” is a stem that moves inside the syringe. Pull the plunger backward to fill the syringe and push it forward to empty the syringe. A new needle/plunger and syringe are sterile until they are opened. The bottle of injectable medication is also sterile. It is important to handle these items properly to avoid contaminating them. Your veterinary care team will show you how to properly open a syringe and draw up injectable medication without breaking sterility. Be sure to use a new syringe, plunger, and needle for each injection. Reusing syringes and needles can cause infection. Additionally, a used needle is dull and therefore more painful than a new needle.

Proper Restraint

Some cats are happy lying or sitting on your lap while you administer the medication injection. However, you should place a towel or blanket across your lap (to avoid getting scratched) in case your cat tries to jump down. Some cats do better on a smooth surface, such as a table; the surface of a washing machine can simulate the smooth metal table at your veterinarian’s office and encourage your cat to remain still during the procedure. Additionally, some cats do better with two people administering the injection – one person to hold the cat and the other one to give the injection.

Giving a Subcutaneous Injection

Your veterinary care team will show you how to administer an injection before you have to try it alone at home:
  • Maintaining sterility, load the syringe with medication and set it close by.
  • Find an area of loose skin. The skin over the middle of the back or just behind the shoulders generally works well. If the injection will be given frequently (as with insulin), try to alternate injection sites so you are not using the same location each time.
  • Gently pinch a section of loose skin between your thumb and forefinger. When you pull the loose skin gently upwards, you should see a small indentation of skin between your fingers.
  • Holding the syringe in the opposite hand, insert the sterile needle directly into the indentation. Keep the needle level (or parallel) with the surface of the skin on the back. If you angle the needle too much, you may enter a muscle, go through the skin to the opposite side, or stick your own finger.
  • Once the needle has been inserted, pull back on the plunger only. If you see blood, remove the needle and try a different location. If not, push the plunger forward to empty the syringe.
  • When the syringe is empty, remove the needle (backing out along the same path that was used to enter the skin).
  • If there is no bleeding or leakage of medication, release the cat after giving him or her a big hug for being a good patient!
  • Be sure to dispose of used needles and syringes properly.

Giving an Intramuscular Injection

There are a few precise areas on the body that are commonly used for giving intramuscular injections. You will need to find “landmarks” on your cat so that you know where to give the injection. Your veterinary care team will show you how to find an appropriate injection site and administer an intramuscular injection before you have to try it alone at home:
​
  • Maintaining sterility, load the syringe with medication and set it close by.
  • Find the injection site, using the techniques your veterinarian demonstrated for you. If the injection will be given frequently, try to alternate injection sites so you are not using the same location each time.
  • Holding the syringe in one hand, insert the sterile needle directly through the skin and into the underlying muscle. The angle of the needle should be between 45° and 90°, depending on the injection site. If your angle is too shallow, you may not inject deeply enough to enter a muscle.
  • Once the needle has been inserted, pull back on the plunger only. If you see blood, remove the needle and try a different location. If not, push the plunger forward to empty the syringe.
  • When the syringe is empty, remove the needle (backing out along the same path that was used to enter the skin).
  • If there is no bleeding or leakage of medication, release the cat after giving him or her a big hug for being a good patient!
  • Be sure to dispose of used needles and syringes properly.

Ask your veterinary team to teach you how to administer medication injections safely. If you aren’t comfortable giving injections, ask about scheduling outpatient visits for the injections to be given.

Administering Medication To Your Cat

1/6/2018

 
  • Before you leave your veterinarian’s office with a new medication, be sure to address any concerns or questions with your veterinary team.
  • It is very important to follow all label directions carefully.
  • Do not risk being bitten, scratched, or otherwise injured while trying to medicate your cat. If you are unable to administer medication, your veterinarian may be able to offer other options.

Understanding the Medication Instructions

The first part of successfully administering medication to your cat is to ensure that you understand the instructions for giving the medication. These instructions include route of administration (for example, by mouth, into the ears, or into the eyes), dosing frequency (for example, once daily, every 12 hours, or every 8 hours), duration of treatment (for example, 7 days, until gone), and other special considerations (for example, give with food, follow with water).

Sometimes there is flexibility with medication instructions; for example, some medications can be given “as needed,” or a twice-daily dosing schedule may be adaptable to once-daily dosing. However, for other medications, the recommended dosing instructions need to be followed closely. Before you leave your veterinarian’s office with a new medication, be sure to address any concerns or questions regarding the medication with your veterinary team. For example, if your work schedule does not permit dosing every 8 hours, your veterinarian may be able to recommend a different medication that can be given less frequently. Ask about your pet’s expected response to the treatment.

It is very helpful to write a medication schedule for your pet on a calendar, including the date and time that the medication needs to be administered. This will help you to (1) avoid forgetting to give a dose and (2) remember when the course of treatment is completed. It is also very important to follow all label directions carefully. Improper storage (for example, keeping a refrigerated medication at room temperature) can affect the safety and effectiveness of medication. Additionally, it is important to give the medication for the correct length of time. Complications can occur if antibiotics are not given for the full duration of recommended treatment; in addition, some medications (such as corticosteroids) cannot be discontinued without causing illness, so it is very important to give medications as directed. If your pet experiences any medication-related side effects, contact your veterinarian promptly for advice before adjusting a dosage or discontinuing the medication.

Administering Pills

If you’ve never given a cat medication before, it can be difficult to know what method will work best. Some cats take pills very readily if the pill is hidden inside a treat or given with a small amount of canned cat food. Another option is canned tuna or salmon for people. Pills can also be crushed (or capsules broken and emptied) and mixed with a small amount of canned food. However, your cat must eat all of the food right away to ensure receiving the full medication dose. Also, some coated pills and capsules have a bitter taste if the capsule or coating is removed. If the medication makes the food taste badly, your cat may refuse to eat it. Before choosing one of these options, ask your veterinarian if the medication can be given with food. You will probably know after the first or second dosing if this method will work.
If you must give your cat a pill directly by mouth, here’s a method that usually works. This technique takes practice and may require more than one attempt to get your cat to swallow the pill. If your cat is not used to having your hands around his or her mouth (as with toothbrushing, for example), gradually introduce your cat to this by stroking your cat’s face and neck for a few moments. This should calm your cat. If you think that your cat may try to bite or scratch, do not attempt this technique; ask your veterinarian for alternative medication options:
  • Restraint: If your cat is well-behaved, place a towel across your lap and hold your cat gently on your lap. If you think your cat may try to scratch you or get away, you may want to wrap his body, feet, and legs in a towel; leave the head out so that you can give the medication.
  • Hold the pill between the thumb and index finger of your right hand (if you are right-handed).
  • Using your left hand, reach over the top of your cat’s head and squeeze your thumb and middle finger between your cat’s upper and lower teeth. Try to stay close to the back of the mouth (near the molars) and away from the canines (the long, pointy teeth near the front of the mouth). If you’re doing this properly, the sides of the upper lip will curl in as your fingers curl in.
  • Once your fingers are inside your cat’s mouth, gently tilt your cat’s head back to encourage your cat to open his or her mouth.
  • Once the mouth is open, use your right index finger and thumb to place the pill near the base of the tongue. Then remove your hands quickly so your cat can swallow.
  • Rub your cat’s throat lightly to encourage swallowing. Offering a small amount of water can also help.

Administering Liquid Medication

Some pet owners prefer liquid medication because administration does not require placing your fingers inside of your cat’s mouth. However, if your cat refuses to swallow the liquid, this method may not be ideal. Here are some tips for administering liquid medication:
  • Restraint: If your cat is well-behaved, place a towel across your lap and hold your cat gently on your lap. If you think your cat may try to scratch or get away, you may want to wrap his or her body, feet, and legs in a towel; leave the head out so that you can give the medication.
  • Draw the medication into the dropper or syringe, and hold it in your right hand (if you are right-handed).
  • Place your left hand behind your cat’s head to stabilize it. You can gently stroke the back of the head and speak softly to your cat to distract and comfort him or her.
  • Using your right hand, insert the tip of the dropper or syringe into the side of your cat’s mouth. Try to stay close to the molars and away from the canine teeth.
  • Once the tip is inside, empty the medication into the mouth and release your cat’s head.
  • Rub the throat lightly to encourage swallowing.

Troubleshooting Tips

If you are unable to administer medications to your cat, here are some suggestions that may help:
  • You may need help: If your cat won’t cooperate with receiving medication, ask someone to help you restrain your cat while you control the head and give the medication.
  • Do not risk injury: Do not risk being bitten, scratched, or otherwise injured while trying to medicate your pet. If you are unable to administer medication, call your veterinarian and request advice or assistance.
  • Ask your veterinarian if a different formulation is available: Some medications are available in several forms, including pills, liquid given by mouth with an eye dropper or syringe, chewable flavored treats, and transdermal gels (the gel is absorbed into the bloodstream after being applied to the skin). If one formulation doesn’t work for you, ask your veterinarian if there is another option for the medication your pet is receiving.
  • Consider asking the pros: Some veterinarians can arrange daily outpatient appointments for a technician or assistant to administer your cat’s medication. If your schedule doesn’t permit this, some veterinarians may be able to board your cat so that medication can be given until the course of treatment is completed.

Administering Subcutaneous Fluids to Your Cat

1/5/2018

 
  • The procedure of injecting a sterile fluid solution directly under the skin is referred to as subcutaneous fluid administration.
  • The advantages of the subcutaneous fluid route include a lower cost (compared with the intravenous route) and ease of administration.
  • Your veterinary health team will work with you to make sure you know how to give subcutaneous fluid injections without injuring yourself or your cat.

What Are Subcutaneous Fluids?

Fluid administration is a regular part of veterinary medical care. Any time that a patient is dehydrated or needs fluids, your veterinarian determines the best way to provide them. Fluids can be given by mouth, injection into a vein (known as intravenous fluids or IV fluids), or injection directly under the skin – a procedure known as subcutaneous fluid administration.

If a pet is able to eat and drink, giving fluids by mouth may be an option. However, if the pet is vomiting, unwilling to drink, or unable to obtain enough fluids through drinking, other methods of fluid administration must be considered. To receive intravenous fluids, pets generally need to be hospitalized because only a small amount can be given at a time and the IV catheter (through which the fluids are given) requires special care and maintenance. However, subcutaneous fluids can be given in larger amounts over a relatively short period of time, so hospitalization is frequently not required. The injection of sterile fluid is given under the skin and absorbed slowly over the next several hours. Advantages of the subcutaneous route include a lower cost (no catheter is required, and hospitalization is often not necessary) and ease of administration.

When Are Subcutaneous Fluids Necessary?
Cats being treated for chronic kidney disease are the most likely to receive subcutaneous fluids on a regular basis. Your veterinarian may also recommend subcutaneous fluids for pets that are vomiting or unable (or unwilling) to drink adequate amounts of water. Examples may include cats receiving chemotherapy, cats with liver disease, or cats with a high fever.
Depending on the medical condition being treated, your veterinarian may recommend fluid injections daily, every other day, or a few times a week. The frequency of injections and the amount of fluids given at each injection may change over time, so be sure to keep a notebook detailing when fluids are given and how much.

Getting Started
Before you get started, your veterinary health team will work with you to make sure you know how to give the subcutaneous fluid injections without injuring yourself or your cat. If you aren’t comfortable or need additional training sessions, don’t be afraid to ask!
Here are a few things to consider:
  • Be sure you can handle your cat without being injured. This may not be an issue if your cat is very compliant and is used to being handled. However, if you have had problems in the past trying to trim nails, give a pill, or perform other procedures on your cat, you may need help giving fluid injections. Talk to your veterinary care team about tips for properly restraining your cat for fluid injections before attempting your first session. In some cases, you may need another person to help hold your cat so that you can safely give the injection.
  • Don’t be afraid to ask questions. Your team of veterinary professionals will be glad to answer any questions you may have about safely administering fluid injections to your cat.
  • Record your cat’s fluid schedule on the calendar. Include the date and time that the fluids need to be administered. This will help you to avoid forgetting to give fluids to your cat and to remember when the course of treatment is completed.
  • It’s okay to leave fluid injections to the professionals. Giving fluid injections to a cat requires skill, patience, and confidence. If you aren’t comfortable trying to give injections at home, ask your veterinary team if the injections can be done at your veterinarian’s office.

The new fluid bag, fluid line, and needles are sterile until they are opened. It is important to handle these items properly to avoid contaminating them. Your veterinary care team will show you how to assemble the fluid line and bag and to attach a fresh needle without breaking sterility. Be sure to change the needle after each injection; the fluid line can be changed when each bag of fluids is completed.
For the fluids to flow from the bag and into your pet, the fluid bag must be suspended over the area where your pet is sitting. Many pet owners use a bent wire coat hanger to hang the fluid bag over the top of a door; you can then sit in a nearby chair and hold the cat while fluids are being given.

Proper Restraint

Your cat may be happy lying or sitting on your lap while you administer the fluid injection. However, you should place a towel or blanket across your lap (to avoid getting scratched) in case your cat tries to jump down. Some cats do better on a smooth surface, such as a table; the top surface of a washing machine can simulate the smooth metal table at your veterinarian’s office, which might encourage your cat to remain still during the procedure. Additionally, some cats do better with two people administering the injection – one person to hold the cat, and the other one to give the injection.

Giving the Fluid Injection

Your veterinary care team will show you how to administer fluids before you have to try it alone at home:
  • Find an area of loose skin; the skin over the middle of the back or just behind the shoulder blades generally works well.
  • Gently pinch a section of loose skin between your thumb and forefinger. When you pull the loose skin gently upward, you should see a small indentation of skin between your fingers.
  • Insert the sterile needle directly into the indentation. Keep the needle level (or parallel) to the surface of the skin on the back. If your angle of injection is too sharp, you may enter a muscle, go through the skin, or stick your own finger.
  • Once the needle has been inserted, open the dial on the fluid line to begin administering fluids. The procedure should take only a few minutes.
  • When the desired amount of fluid has been given, remove the needle (backing out along the same path that was used to enter the skin) and gently pinch the skin for a few seconds to help prevent the fluid from flowing back out.
  • If there is no bleeding or leakage of fluid, release your cat after giving him or her praise and a big hug for being a good patient!

​Ask your veterinary team to teach you how to administer fluid injections safely. If you aren’t comfortable giving injections, ask about scheduling outpatient visits for the fluid injections to be given.

Adopting Instead of Buying

1/4/2018

5 Comments

 
  • While estimates vary, approximately three to four million dogs and cats are euthanized (“put to sleep”) each year in the United States because too few people spay or neuter the pets they have, too few adopt their new pets, and too many give up their pets.
  • By adopting a pet from an animal shelter or rescue group, you'll help save the lives of two animals—the pet you adopt and a homeless animal that can be rescued because of space you make available.
  • Animal shelters and rescue groups have plenty of healthy, well-behaved animals waiting for a home.
  • Adopting a pet from an animal shelter is much less expensive than buying a pet.
  • Although many shelters and rescue groups have purebred animals, an adopted mixed-breed pet may be healthier than a purebred pet and, therefore, cost less overall.
  • If you’re thinking of adding a pet to your household, there are many good reasons to adopt instead of buy one.

You'll Save Lives
While the estimates vary, approximately three to four million dogs and cats are euthanized (“put to sleep”) each year in the United States because too few people spay or neuter the pets they have, too few adopt their new pets, and too many give up their pets. Because space at shelters is limited, staff members must make the difficult decision to euthanize healthy animals that aren’t adopted within a certain amount of time.

The number of euthanized animals could be reduced greatly if more people adopted pets instead of buying them. By adopting from an animal shelter or rescue group, you'll help save the lives of two animals—the pet you adopt and a homeless animal that can be rescued because of space you make available.

You'll Get a Great Pet
Animal shelters and rescue groups have plenty of healthy, well-behaved animals waiting for a home. Most shelters examine and vaccinate animals when they arrive, and many shelters spay or neuter them before adoption. In addition to providing medical care, more and more shelters and rescue groups screen animals for specific temperaments (“personality” characteristics) and behaviors to match pets with prospective owners.

It is a common belief that animals end up in shelters because they were abused or behaved badly. In truth, most animals in shelters are there because of “people reasons”: divorce, moving, lack of time, and financial constraints are among the most common reasons why pets lose their homes. Adopted pets are just as loving, intelligent, and loyal as purchased pets.

You'll Save Money
Adopting a pet from an animal shelter is much less expensive than buying a pet at a pet store or through other sources. Buying a pet can easily cost $500 to $1000 or more; adoption costs range from $50 to $200. In addition, animals from many shelters are already spayed or neutered and vaccinated, which makes the shelter’s fee a bargain. 

Although many shelters and rescue groups have purebred animals, an adopted mixed-breed pet may be healthier than a purebred pet (purebred pets are more likely to have genetic problems) and, therefore, cost less overall.

You Won’t Support Puppy or Kitten Mills
Puppy and kitten mills are factory-style breeding facilities that put profit above the welfare of animals. Most animals raised in these mills are housed in poor conditions with improper medical care. They are often in poor health and have ongoing behavior and health problems due to lack of human companionship and inbreeding. Mill animals are sold to unsuspecting consumers in pet stores, over the Internet, and through newspaper classified advertisements.

By adopting instead of buying a pet, you can be certain that you aren't supporting puppy or kitten mills.

You Can Choose a Pet of Any Age
Although puppies and kittens are cute, they can require a lot of work to train. An adult or older pet that is already trained may be a better fit for your lifestyle. For example, adopting an adult dog that is already housetrained and knows basic commands is often much easier than adopting a puppy.

You’re Likely to Have a Support System
Most pet stores don’t provide any support if you have questions or problems with your new pet. However, rescue groups do provide support for new owners because keeping pets in good homes is in the best interest of these groups.

Search for adoptable pets on Web sites like Petfinder.com and theshelterpetproject.org or contact your local shelter for adoptable pets in your area.
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