​Dog agility training is a great form of exercise for dogs and handlers, can harness a dog’s energy and boost his or her confidence, and can help improve the human–animal bond.

• Always put your dog’s health and safety first during exercise. Your veterinarian can help you determine whether your dog is a good candidate for dog agility training.
• Completion of an obedience class is required for enrollment in most dog agility training classes.
• The United States Dog Agility Association (USDAA) oversees recreational and competitive dog agility programs.

The Basics
There are many kinds of organized sports and activities that you can do with your dog.
Dog agility is a competitive sport in which a person (handler) directs a dog through a timed obstacle course. Handlers and dogs race against the clock as the dogs jump hurdles, climb ramps, run through tunnels, cross a see-saw, and weave through a line of poles. Scoring is based on faults, similar to equestrian show jumping. Dog agility competition has become an exciting spectator event, and training for it is a great form of exercise for dogs and handlers, can harness a dog’s energy and boost his or her confidence, and can help improve the human–animal bond.
Dog agility is frequently referred to as a sport for all dogs because any type of dog, purebred or mixed breed, can compete. More than 150 dog breeds (including mixed breeds as a single group) have performed well in this sport. Dogs with high energy and good agility make good competitors.

Training Classes
Dog agility training is physically and mentally demanding for dogs. Your veterinarian can help you determine whether your dog is a good candidate for dog agility training. Always put your dog’s health and safety first during exercise. Never force your dog to perform a task that makes him or her anxious or scared. If your dog does not appear comfortable with an obstacle, he or she should be taken to another obstacle. A dog may need time to work up to a large or complicated obstacle.

Completion of an obedience class is required for enrollment in most dog agility training classes.

An average dog agility class may meet for about 1 hour weekly for 6 weeks. Classes often begin with playtime and warmups to accustom the dogs to their surroundings. Classes tend to be enjoyable for dogs, and they give handlers the opportunity to meet other dog owners in their community.

Competition
The United States Dog Agility Association (USDAA) has four basic height divisions within its two competitive programs (performance and championship). The jump heights have proven to be safe for properly trained dogs. Developed for recreational competition, the performance program involves lower jump heights and more generous time limits. As with any sport, considerable training time is required to be highly competitive. Dogs must be registered with the USDAA to compete in its events and are eligible to compete beginning at 18 months of age.

USDAA also promotes dog agility as a community sport, offering people a fun alternative for spending quality time with their dogs. Handlers and dogs can do reasonably well and have fun without the training time required in other competitive canine activities. USDAA has developed a junior handler program for school-age children and their pets to encourage their participation and teach responsible pet ownership.

Getting Involved
To get involved in dog agility, locate a group and/or attend an agility test or demonstration in your area. For more information, visit the USDAA Website: www.usdaa.com.

• If your dog has become aggressive, consult your veterinarian to rule out a medical cause.
• Understanding the various types of aggression in dogs can help you determine why your dog might be aggressive.
• Do not use physical punishment on your dog. Hitting your dog could cause him or her to become afraid or more aggressive.
• Treating canine aggression is usually complex and can be dangerous, so a treatment plan should be designed and supervised by a behavior specialist.

The Basics
The most common and serious behavior problems of dogs are associated with aggression. Canine aggression includes any behavior associated with a threat or attack (e.g., growling, biting). Aggressive dogs usually exhibit some part of the following sequence of increasingly intense behaviors:

• Becoming still and rigid
• Threatening barking
• Lunging or charging at a target without making contact
• Mouthing a person or animal to move or control him or her
• “Muzzle punching”—the dog punches with his or her nose
• Growling
• Showing teeth
• Snarling—a combination of growling and showing teeth
• Snapping the mouth
• Nipping quickly without leaving a mark
• Biting quickly and tearing the skin
• Biting, resulting in a bruise
• Biting, resulting in puncture wounds
• Rapid, repeated biting
• Biting and shaking

Dogs don’t always follow the above sequence, and they often engage in several of the behaviors simultaneously. Owners often don’t recognize the warning signs before a dog bite, so they think that their dog has suddenly become aggressive for no apparent reason. However, dogs rarely bite without warning.
If your dog has become aggressive, it is crucial to take him or her to your veterinarian in order to rule out medical issues before you do anything else. Some dogs are aggressive because of a medical condition (e.g., any type of pain, an orthopedic [bone or joint] problem, a thyroid gland abnormality, adrenal gland dysfunction, cognitive [brain] dysfunction, a seizure disorder, loss or decrease of senses such as vision or hearing). Geriatric dogs that feel confused or insecure may become aggressive. In addition, certain medications can alter your dog’s mood, possibly causing your dog to become aggressive.

If a medical cause of your dog’s aggression has been ruled out by your veterinarian, think about the situations that upset your dog. Who or what was the target of your dog’s aggression? When and where did it happen? What else was occurring at the time? What had just happened or was about to happen to your dog? What seemed to stop your dog’s aggression? Answering these questions can clarify the circumstances that trigger your dog’s aggression and can help you and your veterinarian understand the reasons for your dog’s behavior. Understanding the various types of aggression in dogs can also help you determine why your dog is aggressive.

Types of Aggression
Aggression can be a complicated condition to evaluate. Some dogs may exhibit a single form of aggression, while others may exhibit several types of aggression at the same time. Understanding the different types of aggression can help get to the root of the problem:

• Dominance aggression (also called impulse control aggression) occurs when a dog threatens or attacks people for correcting his or her behavior. Situations that provoke this aggression include physical restraint and control of food and toys.
• Fear aggression occurs when a dog is afraid. Affected dogs often urinate or defecate during the episode. The dog is initially passive or withdrawn but becomes aggressive when he or she can no longer avoid the frightening situation.
• Interdog aggression is directed at other dogs inside and/or outside the household.
• Maternal aggression occurs when a mother dog is excessively aggressive toward people who she feels are threatening her puppies or toward the puppies themselves.
• Pain aggression is a protective reaction by a dog in pain. This aggression can occur when a dog is touched or moved or anticipates being handled.
• Play aggression occurs with play behaviors such as chasing. Vigorous play (e.g., tug-of-war) by people does not necessarily lead to play aggression in dogs.
• Possessive aggression occurs when a dog thinks that a person or animal may try to take a toy or other non-food object.
• Predatory aggression is associated with predation (e.g., stalking, hunting, or catching small animals). This aggression usually involves a sudden attack, a severe bite, and shaking of the prey.
• Protective aggression occurs when a dog guards his or her owner from another person who may not pose an actual threat.
• Redirectedaggression occurs when a dog cannot attack an intended target (e.g., person or animal) and redirects his or her aggression toward another target.
• Territorial aggression occurs when a dog protects a place, such as a yard or house, from another animal or a person who may not pose an actual threat.

Play Versus Aggression
It can be difficult to tell the difference between nonaggressive and aggressive nipping and mouthing by dogs. Some dogs use their mouths out of fear or frustration, which can indicate a problem with aggression. In most cases, playful dogs have a relaxed body and face. During play, your dog’s muzzle might look wrinkled, but the facial muscles shouldn’t look tense. Playful nipping or mouthing is usually not painful. However, an aggressive dog often has a stiff body, a wrinkled muzzle, and exposed teeth. Aggressive bites are usually quicker and more painful than playful nipping or mouthing.

Risk Factors
You are ultimately responsible for your dog’s behavior. If you are deciding whether to keep and treat your aggressive dog, consider the following factors:

• Size: Large dogs are more frightening and can inflict more damage than small dogs.
• Age: Young dogs that are aggressive are thought to be easier to treat than older dogs.
• Bite history: Dogs that have already bitten are a known risk and an insurance liability.
• Severity: Aggressive dogs that do not bite are significantly safer to have than dogs that bite.
• Predictability: Dogs that give little or no warning before they bite are at the highest risk of being euthanized for aggression. Dogs that warn before they bite allow people and other animals time to avoid getting hurt.
• Targets: The ability to manage and treat your dog’s aggression can be affected by how often your dog is exposed to his or her targets of aggression. For example, a dog that is aggressive toward strangers may be easy to control if you live in a rural area with a securely fenced yard. A dog that is aggressive toward children can be easier to manage if children are seldom around.
• Triggers: Are the triggers that cause your dog to become aggressive easy or impossible to avoid? For example, if your dog is only aggressive while eating, the solution is easy: stay away from your dog while he or she is eating.
• Reproductive status: Spaying or neutering can help with several forms of aggression.
• Motivation: How easy is it to motivate your dog during training? The safest and most effective way to treat aggression is to use behavior modification under the guidance of a qualified professional. Modifying a dog’s behavior involves rewards for good behavior, so success is more likely if your dog enjoys praise, treats, and toys. Dogs that aren’t very motivated by these rewards can be challenging to train, so the likelihood of improvement is lower.

​Treatment
Treating canine aggression is usually complex and can be dangerous, so a treatment plan should be designed and supervised by a behavior specialist. Look for a certified applied animal behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB), a veterinary behaviorist (DACVB), or a certified professional dog trainer (CPDT) in your area. If you choose a CPDT, be sure that he or she has training and experience in treating canine aggression.
Helping your dog avoid situations that cause him or her to become aggressive can reduce the risk of your dog biting someone. Physical punishment, including the use of prong collars and electric shock collars, can worsen a dog’s aggression. Therefore, punishment of aggression is not recommended.

​Adrenal gland disease usually affects adult ferrets (older than 2 years).

• The most common clinical sign is hair loss.
• Treatment may involve surgery or medication.

​What Causes Adrenal Gland Disease in Ferrets?
Adrenal gland disease is, unfortunately, a common disease of pet ferrets in the United States. Most affected ferrets are older than 2 years. While the exact cause of this condition has not been determined, it is believed that spaying and neutering ferrets at an early age plays a role. This is problematic because failing to spay females can result in life-threatening illness, while neutering males reduces odor and aggression. Removal of the testes or ovaries removes hormonal influences that appear to affect the adrenal gland. In the absence of these influences, the adrenal glands may overproduce several sex hormones, causing a variety of clinical signs. In some cases, the overactive gland can eventually become cancerous. Genetics may also play a role in the development of adrenal gland disease.

What Are the Clinical Signs?
The most common sign associated with this condition is hair loss, particularly on the tail, hips, and shoulders. Some ferrets may become extremely itchy, and some have an oily appearance to the fur. Female ferrets may develop swelling of the vulva and, occasionally, a discharge. Behavioral changes such as increased aggression are also sometimes observed.

In male ferrets, the prostate may become enlarged, resulting in difficulty urinating. This is an emergency situation. If you have a male ferret that is straining to urinate, veterinary care is required immediately.

Ferrets with any of the conditions listed above could have an adrenal gland problem and should be examined by a veterinarian.
    
How Is the Problem Diagnosed?
Adrenal gland disease can be diagnosed by measuring hormone levels in a sample of the ferret’s blood. If the hormone levels are elevated above normal, adrenal gland disease is present. Another way to diagnose this problem is with abdominal ultrasound. The ultrasound exam is a noninvasive way of visualizing the internal organs. It allows the veterinarian to determine which adrenal gland may be affected as well as whether there are obvious abnormalities in other abdominal organs. Exploratory surgery, which is performed based on the history, clinical symptoms, and physical examination, is another means of identifying enlarged adrenal glands or masses.
    
How Are Ferrets Treated for Adrenal Gland Disease?
Several options are available for the treatment of adrenal gland disease. Surgical removal of the affected gland is the preferred treatment. Surgery allows direct inspection of both adrenal glands as well as the other internal organs. If abnormalities are noted in one or both adrenal glands, the glands can be removed, and other abnormalities can be investigated or addressed at the same time. The left adrenal gland can typically be removed without complication. The right adrenal gland lies very close to a major blood vessel called the caudal vena cava, making removal more difficult. For right-sided adrenal gland disease, more advanced surgical techniques may be needed. While surgery is curative in most ferrets, it is important to know that in some cases, an adrenal mass may recur, or grow back.

Hormone therapy can also be employed in treating adrenal problems. The hormone leuprolide acetate (Lupron) is commonly used. Leuprolide mimics the effects of a hormone called GnRH (gonadotropin-releasing hormone). This ultimately causes the body to stop producing GnRH, thus decreasing stimulation of the adrenal glands. Lupron is usually given as one injection every 6 to 8 weeks. While leuprolide controls the signs of adrenal gland disease, it does not modify a diseased adrenal gland or prevent tumor development. Even with regular Lupron injections, an enlarged adrenal gland may continue to grow or become a tumor.

A newer treatment, similar to Lupron injection, is the deslorelin acetate (Suprelorin) implant. Like leuprolide, deslorelin mimics GnRH and blocks adrenal stimulation. The advantage of deslorelin over leuprolide is that the implant lasts for up to 2 years in the average ferret. Additionally, there is some evidence that deslorelin can shrink adrenal tumors or slow their development.

If your ferret has any of the signs listed above, or if you have questions about adrenal gland disease, please consult a veterinarian with experience treating exotic pets.

• The procedure of injecting a sterile fluid solution directly under the skin is referred to as subcutaneous fluid administration.
• The advantages of the subcutaneous fluid route include a lower cost (compared with the intravenous route) and ease of administration.
• Your veterinary health team will work with you to make sure you know how to give subcutaneous fluid injections without injuring yourself or your dog.

What Are Subcutaneous Fluids?
Fluid administration is a regular part of veterinary medical care. Any time that a patient is dehydrated or needs fluids, your veterinarian determines the best way to provide them. Fluids can be given by mouth, injection into a vein (known as intravenous fluids or IV fluids), or injection directly under the skin – a procedure known as subcutaneous fluid administration.

If a pet is able to eat and drink, giving fluids by mouth may be an option. However, if the pet is vomiting, unwilling to drink, or unable to obtain enough fluids through drinking, other methods of fluid administration must be considered. To receive intravenous fluids, pets generally need to be hospitalized because only a small amount can be given at a time and the IV catheter (through which the fluids are given) requires special care and maintenance. However, subcutaneous fluids can be given in larger amounts over a relatively short period of time, so hospitalization is frequently not required. The injection of sterile fluid is given under the skin and absorbed slowly over the next several hours. Advantages of the subcutaneous route include a lower cost (no catheter is required, and hospitalization is often not necessary) and ease of administration.

When Are Subcutaneous Fluids Necessary?
Dogs being treated for chronic kidney disease are the most likely to receive subcutaneous fluids on a regular basis. Your veterinarian may also recommend subcutaneous fluids for pets that are vomiting or unable (or unwilling) to drink adequate amounts of water. Examples may include dogs receiving chemotherapy or dogs with a high fever.

Depending on the medical condition being treated, your veterinarian may recommend fluid injections daily, every other day, or a few times a week. The frequency of injections and the amount of fluids given at each injection may change over time, so be sure to keep a notebook detailing when fluids are given and how much.

Getting Started
Before you get started, your veterinary health care team will work with you to make sure you know how to give the subcutaneous fluid injections without injuring yourself or your dog. If you aren’t comfortable or need additional training sessions, don’t be afraid to ask!
Here are a few things to consider:

• Be sure you can handle your dog without being injured. This may not be an issue if your dog is very compliant and is used to being handled. However, if you have had problems in the past trying to trim nails, give a pill, or perform other procedures on your dog, you may need help giving fluid injections. Talk to your veterinary care team about tips for properly restraining your dog for fluid injections before attempting your first session. In some cases, you may need another person to help hold your dog so you can safely give the injection.
• Don’t be afraid to ask questions. Your team of veterinary professionals will be glad to answer any questions you may have about safely administering fluid injections to your dog.
• Record your dog’s fluid schedule on the calendar. Include the date and time that the fluids need to be administered. This will help you to avoid forgetting to give fluids to your dog and to remember when the course of treatment is completed.
• It’s okay to leave fluid injections to the professionals. Giving fluid injections to a dog requires skill, patience, and confidence. If you aren’t comfortable trying to give injections at home, ask your veterinary team if the injections can be done at your veterinarian’s office.

The new fluid bag, fluid line, and needles are sterile until they are opened. It is important to handle these items properly to avoid contaminating them. Your veterinary care team will show you how to assemble the fluid line and bag and to attach a fresh needle without breaking sterility. Be sure to change the needle after each injection; the fluid line can be changed when each bag of fluids is completed.
For the fluids to flow from the bag and into your pet, the fluid bag must be suspended over the area where your pet is sitting. Many pet owners use a bent wire coat hanger to hang the fluid bag over the top of a door; you can then sit in a nearby chair or kneel/sit on the floor with your dog while fluids are being given.

Proper Restraint
A small dog may be happy lying or sitting on your lap while you administer the fluid injection. For a larger dog, you may need to sit in a chair or on the floor next to your dog. Some small dogs may do better on a smooth surface, such as a table; the top surface of a washing machine can simulate the smooth metal table at your veterinarian’s office, which might encourage your dog to remain still during the procedure. Additionally, some dogs do better with two people administering the injection – one person to hold the dog, and the other one to give the injection.

Giving the Fluid Injection
Your veterinary care team will show you how to administer fluids before you have to try it alone at home:

• Find an area of loose skin; the skin over the middle of the back or just behind the shoulders generally works well. If the injection will be given frequently, try to alternate injection sites so you are not using the same location each time.
• Gently pinch a section of loose skin between your thumb and forefinger. When you pull the loose skin gently upward, you should see a small indentation of skin between your fingers.
• While holding the needle in the opposite hand, insert the sterile needle directly into the indentation. Keep the needle level (or parallel) with the surface of the skin on the back. If your angle of injection is too sharp, you may enter a muscle, go through the skin to the opposite side, or stick your own finger.
• Once the needle has been inserted, open the dial on the fluid line to begin administering fluids. The procedure should take only a few minutes.
• When the desired amount of fluid has been given, remove the needle (backing out along the same path that was used to enter the skin) and gently pinch the skin for a few seconds to help prevent the fluid from flowing back out.
• If there is no bleeding or leakage of fluid, release your dog after giving him or her praise and a big hug for being a good patient!

Ask your veterinary team to teach you how to administer fluid injections safely. If you aren’t comfortable giving injections, ask about scheduling outpatient visits for the fluid injections to be given.

• Before you leave your veterinarian’s office with a new medication, be sure to address any concerns or questions with your veterinary team.
• It is very important to follow all label directions carefully.
• Do not risk being bitten or otherwise injured while trying to medicate your pet. If you are unable to administer medication, your veterinarian may be able to offer other options.

Understanding the Medication Instructions
The first part of successfully administering medication to your dog is making sure that you understand the instructions for giving the medication. These instructions include route of administration (for example, by mouth, into the ears, or into the eyes), dosing frequency (such as once daily, every 12 hours, or every 8 hours), duration of treatment (for example, 7 days, until gone), and other special considerations (for example, give with food, follow with water).

Sometimes there is flexibility with medication instructions; for example, some medications can be given “as needed,” or a twice-daily dosing schedule may be adaptable to once-daily dosing. However, for other medications, the recommended dosing instructions need to be followed closely. Before you leave your veterinarian’s office with a new medication, be sure to address any concerns regarding the medication with your veterinary team. For example, if your work schedule does not permit dosing every 8 hours, your veterinarian may be able to recommend a different medication that can be given less frequently. Ask about your pet’s expected response to the treatment.

It is very helpful to write a medication schedule for your pet on a calendar, including the date and time that the medication needs to be administered. This will help you to (1) avoid forgetting to give a dose and (2) remember when the course of treatment has been completed. It is also very important to follow all label directions carefully. Improper storage (such as keeping a refrigerated medication at room temperature) can affect the safety and effectiveness of medication. Additionally, it is important to give the medication for the correct length of time. Complications can occur if antibiotics are not given for the full duration of recommended treatment; in addition, some medications, such as corticosteroids, cannot be discontinued without causing illness, so it is very important to give medications as directed. If your pet experiences any medication-related side effects, contact your veterinarian promptly for advice before adjusting a dosage or discontinuing the medication.

Administering Pills
If you’ve never given a dog medication before, it can be difficult to know what method will work best. Some dogs take pills very readily if the pill is hidden inside a treat (such as liverwurst, a small piece of soft cheese, peanut butter, or cream cheese) or given with a small amount of canned food. Pills can also be crushed (or capsules broken and emptied) and mixed with a small amount of canned food. However, your dog must eat all of the food right away to ensure receiving the full medication dose. Also, some coated pills and capsules have a bitter taste if the capsule or the coating is removed. If the medication makes the food taste badly, your dog may refuse to eat it. Before choosing one of these options, ask your veterinarian if the medication can be given with food (including dairy foods such as cheese). You will probably know after the first or second dosing whether this method will work.

If you must give your dog a pill directly by mouth, here’s a method that usually works. This technique takes practice and may require more than one attempt to get your dog to swallow the pill. If your dog is not used to having your hands in or near his or her mouth (as with toothbrushing, for example), gradually introduce your dog to this by stroking your dog’s muzzle and chin gently for a few moments. If you think your dog may try to bite you, do not attempt this technique; ask your veterinarian about alternative medication options, such as the following:

• Stand/kneel beside your dog (on his or her right side if you are right-handed)
• Hold the pill between the thumb and index finger of your right hand
• Using your left hand, reach over the top of your dog’s nose and squeeze your thumb and middle finger between your dog’s upper and lower teeth. Your thumb should be on one side of your dog’s mouth and your middle finger on the other side. Try to stay behind the canine teeth (the long, pointy teeth near the front of the mouth). If you’re doing this properly, the sides of the upper lip will curl in as your fingers curl in.
• Once your fingers are inside, gently tilt your dog’s head back to encourage your dog to open his or her mouth.
• Once the mouth is open, use your right index finger and thumb to place the pill near the base of the tongue. Then remove your hands quickly so your dog can swallow.
• Rub your dog’s throat lightly to encourage swallowing. Offering a small amount of water can also help.

Administering Liquid Medication
Some pet owners prefer liquid medication because administering it does not require placing your fingers inside your dog’s mouth. However, your dog may refuse to swallow the liquid and, if your dog is very large, the amount of liquid required may be so large that it is not practical. Here are some tips for administering liquid medication:

• Draw the medication into the dropper or syringe and hold it in your right hand (if you are right-handed).
• Stand/kneel beside your dog (on his or her right side if you are right-handed).
• Place your left hand behind your dog’s head to stabilize it. You can gently stroke the back of the head to distract your dog.
• Using your right hand, insert the tip of the dropper or syringe into the side of your dog’s mouth. Try to stay close to the molars and away from the canine teeth.
• Once the tip is inside, empty the medication into the mouth and release your dog’s head.
• Rub your dog’s throat lightly to encourage swallowing.

Troubleshooting Tips
If you are unable to administer medications to your dog, here are some suggestions that may help:

• You may need help. If your dog won’t cooperate with receiving medication, ask someone to help you restrain your dog while you control the head and give the medication.
• Do not risk injury. Do not risk being bitten or otherwise injured while trying to medicate your dog. If you are unable to administer medication, call your veterinarian and request advice or assistance.
• Ask your veterinarian if a different formulation is available. Some medications are available in several forms, including pills, liquid given by mouth with an eye dropper or syringe, chewable flavored treats, and transdermal gels (gel that is absorbed into the bloodstream after being applied to the skin). If a formulation doesn’t work for you, ask your veterinarian if there is another option for the medication your pet is receiving.
• Consider asking the pros. Some veterinarians can arrange daily outpatient appointments for a technician or assistant to administer your dog’s medication. If your schedule doesn’t permit this, some veterinarians may be able to board your dog so that medication can be given until the course of treatment has been completed.